How to experience the Festival of Lights in its most spectacular settings
Introduction
Diwali — the Festival of Lights — is one of the world's great celebrations. Observed by Hindus, Sikhs, Jains, and some Buddhists across South Asia and the global Indian diaspora, it marks the triumph of light over darkness, knowledge over ignorance, and good over evil. The festival spans five days on the Lunar Calendar, falling in October or November when the moon is at its thinnest sliver in the month of Kartika. For travellers, it is one of the most visually and emotionally overwhelming experiences on earth.
Understanding Diwali
The word Diwali derives from the Sanskrit 'Deepavali' — a row of lights. Its central symbol is the [[diyas|diya]] — a small clay oil lamp whose flame represents the light of knowledge within every soul. Millions of diyas are lit on the main Diwali night, placed in rows along rooftops, windowsills, and doorways, transforming neighbourhoods into luminous galleries.
Diwali's narrative roots differ across traditions. For Hindus in northern India, it primarily celebrates the return of Lord Rama to Ayodhya after 14 years of exile. In Gujarat and among business communities, it marks the new financial year. For Sikhs, it commemorates the release of Guru Hargobind Ji from imprisonment — a celebration known as Bandi Chhor Divas. For Jains, it marks the attainment of nirvana by Lord Mahavira.
Best Cities to Visit for Diwali
Varanasi: Diyas on the Ganges
Varanasi — Hinduism's holiest city — offers what many consider the most spiritually profound Diwali experience. On the night of Diwali, the ghats (stepped riverbanks) along the Ganges are lined with hundreds of thousands of clay diyas. Priests perform elaborate evening aartis (fire rituals) accompanied by drums and chanting. Watching the lamplight reflect on the sacred river while the sky above bursts with Pyrotechnics is genuinely transcendent. Boat rides on the Ganges are popular and available from many of the city's ghats.
Jaipur: The Pink City Illuminated
Jaipur's old walled city — built in warm terracotta and pink hues — comes alive during Diwali with extraordinary illuminations. The Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), City Palace, and Amber Fort are floodlit in gold and orange. The bazaars of the old city are packed with vendors selling sweets, firecrackers, and Rangoli powders. The Rajasthani tradition of kite-flying on Diwali adds an extra dimension of colour to the festival atmosphere.
Amritsar: Golden Temple at Diwali and Bandi Chhor Divas
The Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple) — Sikhism's holiest shrine — is spectacularly illuminated for Diwali and Bandi Chhor Divas. Thousands of diyas line the perimeter of the sacred pool (sarovar) and fireworks are launched from the temple complex throughout the night. The atmosphere of devotion combined with the visual splendour of the illuminated golden temple reflected in the water is unlike anything else in the world.
Mumbai: A Modern Festival
Mumbai's Diwali is a vibrant mix of the traditional and contemporary. Neighbourhoods compete with elaborate light displays. The Lalbaug and Dadar flower markets overflow with marigolds used for decoration. Mithai (sweet) shops do record business, with families exchanging gift boxes of ladoo, kaju katli, and barfi. The city's Puja ceremonies, particularly Lakshmi Puja on the main Diwali night, are conducted across homes and businesses alike.
The Five Days of Diwali
Each of the five days has its own ritual significance.
**Day 1 — Dhanteras:** Auspicious day to purchase gold, silver, or new utensils. Markets are exceptionally busy.
**Day 2 — Naraka Chaturdashi (Choti Diwali):** Oil baths, special prayers, and early fireworks mark this day, which commemorates the defeat of the demon Narakasura.
**Day 3 — Diwali (Main Night):** The night of Lakshmi Puja, diyas, and the most spectacular fireworks. Families perform prayers for the goddess of wealth and light lamps across their homes.
**Day 4 — Govardhan Puja / Annakut:** Marks the lifting of Mount Govardhan by Lord Krishna. In Gujarat, the new business year begins.
**Day 5 — Bhai Dooj:** A celebration of the sibling bond, where sisters perform rituals for their brothers' long lives.
Food and Gifting
Food is central to Diwali. Mithai (Indian sweets) are exchanged as gifts and prepared at home. Popular varieties include ladoo (chickpea flour or besan balls), kaju katli (cashew fudge), gulab jamun (milk solids in rose syrup), and barfi (milk-based fudge). Savoury snacks like chakli and namak pare are also traditional. Accepting sweets offered by hosts is an important part of Diwali hospitality — politely declining is generally not expected.
Practical Tips for Diwali Travel
The main Diwali night is when fireworks peak — air quality in Indian cities drops dramatically. Travellers with asthma or respiratory conditions should carry medication and monitor air quality. Book accommodation well in advance, particularly in Varanasi and Jaipur where demand surges. Wear comfortable, slightly festive clothing — Indian women in traditional kurtas or saris are welcome, as are men in kurtas. Expect noise: firecrackers are extremely loud, particularly in residential areas after dark. Most businesses close for the Public Holiday on the main Diwali day, so plan provisioning ahead.
Diwali in South India
South India celebrates Diwali with equal enthusiasm but with regional variations that differ from northern traditions. In Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh, Naraka Chaturdashi — the day before the main Diwali night — is often the primary celebration. Families wake before dawn to perform an oil bath ritual, anoint themselves with sesame oil, and burst firecrackers at sunrise. The streets of Chennai, Bangalore, and Hyderabad are brilliantly illuminated and sweet shops overflow with customers. Bangalore's Cubbon Park area and Hyderabad's historic Charminar neighbourhood are particularly atmospheric for the festival.
Shopping and Markets During Diwali
The weeks before Diwali are among India's most intense shopping periods. Markets overflow with diyas, rangoli powders and stencils, decorative lights, new clothing, and mithai boxes for gifting. The gold and jewellery markets — particularly in Jaipur's Johari Bazaar and Mumbai's Zaveri Bazaar — are exceptionally busy on Dhanteras, when purchasing gold is considered auspicious. Jaipur's bazaars are among India's finest for traditional crafts: block-print textiles, blue pottery, lac bangles, and handmade paper products make ideal souvenirs or Diwali gifts to take home. Plan a full morning or afternoon for market exploration — the sensory experience alone, regardless of what you buy, is extraordinary.
Photography During Diwali
Diwali offers extraordinary photography opportunities: the soft warm light of thousands of clay diyas, the reflection of lamps on the Ganges at Varanasi, the colourful rangoli patterns at doorways, and fireworks bursting against the dark sky. Use a tripod or camera stabilisation for long-exposure shots of diya-lit streets. Always seek permission before photographing inside temples or during private family prayers. The Ganges ghats at Varanasi in the early evening of the main Diwali night — when diyas are placed on the water and float downstream — are the single most rewarding location for atmospheric Diwali photography. Arrive an hour before sunset to secure a position on the ghat steps.
Getting There and Around During Diwali
Air travel to major Indian cities during Diwali is in high demand — book domestic and international flights at least two to three months ahead. Within cities, auto-rickshaws and app-based taxis remain the most practical transport for navigating festival crowds. The days immediately before Diwali see road congestion peak as families stock up on sweets, fireworks, and gifts. Consider basing yourself centrally to minimise transport requirements on the main festival nights, when certain roads are closed for processions or simply gridlocked with celebratory traffic. An unhurried approach — allowing time to wander streets spontaneously rather than following a rigid itinerary — yields the most rewarding Diwali experience.